Summer Savory

Summer Savory not your vibe? Check out N/A Summer Sweet instead.

In June, when the temperatures creep above 70, I leave the Manhattans behind, and start sniffing out margaritas, mai tais, anything with orgeat that helps me pretend I’m on the vacation I keep promising myself I’ll take “next month.” 

But my palate can only handle so much fruit juice, and by July, I’m looking for something to wash away the sugar. So this month, allow me to humbly suggest: the savory cocktail.  

Yes, we all know about the dirty martini. But this summer, consider expanding your savory horizons. Mine started when I noticed that three different restaurants in the city were simultaneously serving horseradish-infused drinks: Homer’s bitter herb martini, with horseradish vodka, dry Dolin vermouth, salt, and a drop of parsley oil; Bait Shop’s Pale Horse, with horseradish-infused vodka, kosher dill pickle brine, and a sprig of fresh dill; and Korochka Tavern’s horseradish vodka shot, which is served blindingly cold with a thin, dense slice of rye bread that you’re instructed to sniff after every sip (no, that is not a joke, and yes, it’s worth it). 

I tried Korochka’s shot on a whim, prepared for it to taste like a dare. But it was sharp, refreshing, almost fortifying, and it left me craving more of it. 

The savory riffs are everywhere you’d find a cocktail menu that has the names of the people who created the cocktail, or the drink’s tasting notes (you know the ones). The Doctor’s Office makes a petite savory treat called the Agave Sunomono, with tequila, cucumber, and sesame oil. On Queen Anne, Bar Miriam’s has a curry-inspired cocktail that hits a rare savory note that’s not a riff on a martini. 

I went to Corvus & Co. on Broadway to try the Evening Star (olive oil fat-washed vodka, gin, Lillet Blanc, and a marinated tomato garnish), but it was from an old menu. I asked if they could make something else that skewed savory. Out came an oceanic riff on a martini, with seaweed liqueur, dry gin, dry vermouth, Brennivín, and a pinch of salt. This turned out to be the summeriest of them all, the way the air tastes when you have a picnic on the beach.

Keep in mind: Not all savory cocktails are created equal. Beware the drinks that are missing something sharp like brine or citrus. Drinking a coup full of chive-infused vodka and vermouth does not leave you feeling refreshed.

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